A Performance at Yakushi-do Temple

The Final of three missions to be achieved during the Yama Festival in Kakunodate is a visit to the Yakushi-do Temple (薬師堂).

The Yakushi-Do Temple (薬師堂）in Kakunodate Area

The Okiyama ("Placed Yama") is seen in front of the temple during the festival.

A doll on an Okiyama

The Yakushi-do’s history can be traced back a thousand years, when Kakunodate Area was under the control by the Tozawa Clan. There was a small shrine that was rumored as beneficial for a medical purpose (薬師). When the Lord of Tozawa suffered from an eye disease, he had come to this small site. After a pray, his disease was cured, so that he donated an oratory here. More wishes had come true since then, so Seiju (成就), or “wish-fulfilling” was added to its name.

On derivation of the religious site

Over a thousand years, the Yakushi-do Temple has been a familiar site for the Kakunodate locals. They have called it, “O-Yakushi-San”.

The Yama floats are required to visit here either on the Day 2 or 3-- Day 2 of Yoi-Matsuri (宵祭り), Evening Festival : Day 3 of Hon-Matsuri (本祭り), the Main Festival. This tradition is designated by the national government as an Important Intangible Cultural Property.

Basically, the visit has the same routine as at the Shinmeisha. The float is placed before the torii gate; the hikite (“pullers”) group proceeds to the main shrine and receive purification and a prayer, while the dancers perform for the dedication; when done, the float is moved and the baton is passed.

A Yama float arrives.

It shifts its space to upright to the main shrine.

The purification and a prayer in a ceremony.

Meanwhile, the dancers perform on the Yama front.

The street is full of floats and the spectators.

The narrow street is full of people.

One thing, though, is that after the completion of these missions, the privilege rule will lose its effectiveness; therefore, the floats are to negotiate over which float takes the route and which to yield. If disagree, the moment of decision would come.

Ladies and gentlemen-- Our next post is the moment of Yama-Buttsuke, the Crash of Floats.

Kabuki Dolls on the Yama Floats

The fall festival in Kakunodate took place last week, September 7th to 9th.

Kakunodate Town, Little Kyoto of the Tohoku Region, has been the mecca for the travelers who seek for a get-away in a rural historical town.

Satake-Joran on the Day 2 would be a great day for see-and-compare.

The main attraction of the festival is, without a doubt, the Yama floats. Now, it is translated as “a float”, as in a mikoshi (神輿) or a "portable shrine" that is commonly seen in Japanese festivals; however, the floats in Kakunodate, Yama (山車) literally translates into “a mountain vehicle” – as in a heavy dray transporting goods and people.

Knowing what are on a Yama would help you understand the complexity of traditions and enhances the entertainment upon following a Yama. Agree?

So here it goes:

The most attractive figure on a Yama float is—if not the dancers—the dolls (ningyo;人形) on the butai (舞台) stage where dances and leaders stand. Depending on the Yama, the dolls are made every year or preserved for the coming years. The dolls are so intricate that they appear as if breathing—the locals stresses, “The dolls are the most important creation in which the deities are said to be embodied.”

The dolls are created by traditional craftsman that remains only a few in Town today. Some are so well-crafted that carefully preserved and handed down over several years. Making dolls starts as early as May. The dolls must illustrate a famous scene from a Kabuki theater.

Take for an example:

Seibu Group （西部）

A scene of Kotobuki-Shiki-Sanban-So (寿式三番叟)

Seibu（西部）group's Dolls on the front Stage of Yama.

Sanbanso

Sanbanso (三番叟) is an act of Kabuki (歌舞伎) that is performed at a celebratory rituals to wish for the peaceful society and long expectations. It originally derives from an Okina (翁), an act from a Noh, Classical Japanese Musical Theater.

In this particular scene, the Sanbanso performs a “Suzumai”（鈴舞い）, or the Bell Dance. The bells signify an ear of rice. By shaking the bells, the prosperity and good harvest for the year is said to be achieved.

Each float features a different Kabuki scene. The dolls significantly vary in styles and materials. Truly entertaining to see it and compare!

Iwase Group (岩瀬）

Shimo-Iwase Group (下岩瀬）

Yamane Group　（山根）

Hokubu Group （北部）

Yokomachi Group （横町）; A doll of Minamoto-no-Yoritomo on the right.

While the front dolls depicts a rather serious scene, Ushiro-Ningyo (後ろ人形), Rear Dolls are humorous! Makes you laugh.

Yokomachi Group

Shimo-Iwase Group

Hokubu Group

Otsuka Group (大塚); A Ninja!!!

Also, the Okiyama (大置山）are a massive structure of a mountain located in different parts of town. You will see a scene of Kabuki there as well.

 

Okiyama (大置山） in front of the Yakushi-do Temple (薬師堂）

Face to Face in a Negotiation

On the 2nd day of Kakunodate's Yama Festival, all the 18 groups of floats are to perform for the Lord of Satake-- called Satake-Joran (佐竹上覧）. 

Kakunodate's tourists capital, Bukeyashiki-dori (武家屋敷通り）is a street of old samurai residences where the main event of the Day 2 takes place. After each performance, the float has to head to the final destination-- the Yakushi-do Temple-- to finally complete the 3 missions of the festival.

Most floats take the same route back, so that the floats must  pass by the ones in line. The same priority rule as a visit to the Shinmeisha Shrine (神明社）applies here: The kudari floats （下り山）must give up on the privilege and yield to the nobori floats （上り山）that are on the route for a mission.

The street is crowded with people and floats.

Designated by the government as the Important Preservation District, any properties could be damaged in this district, let alone injuries in the crowd. This is when a negotiation or koushou (交渉) comes in.

Negotiators from each side scuat down face to face. They discuss in full details (e.g. timing, space) to carry out the move smoothly and by meticulous attention.

Hush-hush.. they follow the traditional rule and have specific lines of words.

Carefully and swiftly moved.

 

NO CRASH at this point since the negotiations carried out smoothly.
The excitement can be see on the Day 3.

 

Visiting the Lord of Satake, Our Governor!

Kakunodate is dubbed as Little Kyoto of the Tohoku region. The town is known for mainly 3 things: cherry blossoms, the Samurai residences, and the fall festival.

Bukeyashiki Dori in the fall is beautifully colored.

 Photo Courtesy of Semboku City. See the  Live Camera.

 Last week was the fall festival. We still have been in the post-fever haze. On the Day 2 of the Yama-Buttsuke Festival, you can check out the last two of the must-see list —the Yama floats pays a visit to the current "Lord of the Satake Clan” in the street of Samurai residences.

Lines of Yama Floats could be seen in the street.

If you are keen on geography, you might notice that Kakunodate is laid out according to the grid pattern that is quite similar to other historical towns like Kyoto. No Wonder— it is because the city was established based on the feudatory hierarchy. The castle and the higher-rank Samurai families lived closer to the Satake Family, the ruler of Akita in the Edo period. Farther down is a town of craftsman, and farmers followed along.

Back to the story. On the middle day of Yama festival, a float group is required to visit the Satake Residence on the far end of the Samurai street (Bukeyashiki-dori:武家屋敷通り). The groups then have a honorary performance before the Lord of Satake—it is called Satake-Kita-Ke-Joran (佐竹北家上覧).

The moving floats must accompany with music.

Awaits.

A float is as heavy as 2 tons.

The street is full of people.

The Bukeyashiki-dori is a boulevard that runs straight to his residence called Satake-kita-ke, literally meaning “the Satake North Residence”.

The head of the Satake family waits for all the 18 groups to perform the traditional routines. Some might  recognize the current head of the Satake Family—believe it or not—it is our own prefectural governor, Mr. Satake!!

The group performs in front of the Lord...

... and he is our governor, Mr. Satake!

The hikites sing as well.

The kabuki-themed dolls (人形）

Odorite (踊り手）

A group of hikite （曳き手） who moves the floats.

The musicians are inside the float.

O-hayashi (お囃子）music is consisted of 6 different kinds of instruments.

Here is a video to show you how Satake-Joran is done! Enjoy!

VOTE for JINDAI CURRY at B1 in Atsugi

This coming weekend, September 18-19th, Jindai Curry is going to compete in a championship of local foods, called B1 Grand Prix in Atsugi. Jindai Curry will be competing with 45 other local foods from all over Japan. B1 is a category of foods that are lesser-known than the signature local cuisines (e.g. Kiritanpo and Inaniwa Udon in Akita Prefecture) but enjoyed widely by the local people.

Each visitor has a pair of chopsticks—two votes. By the end of the game, the weight of chopsticks is measured to decide which dish is the best. Last year, the winner was Yokote Yakisoba. Jindai Curry got the 4th place. Almost there!

Jindai Curry and Curranger! Find them in Atsugi!

THE 5TH ANNUAL B1 GRAND PRIX IN ATSUGI

September 18-19th, 2010. At 10:00-16:00

Event Sites:

#1: Itoyokado (イトーヨーカドー）Parking Lot
#2: Atsugi Yakyu-Jo （Atsugi Baseball Field: 厚木野球場）
#3: Loco Food Festa KANAGAWA Site (厚木中央公園)

FREE OF CHARGE!!!

 FOOD COUPONS ARE SOLD FOR 300-500 Yen.

JINDAI CURRY BOOTH IS LOCATED IN THE EVENT SITE #1.

THE BOOTH NUMBER IS 6. 

Find the yellow suite of Curranger and follow your nose...

Meet the Jindai Curry Super Hero:

The group of Jindai Curry Promoters is consisted of 30 members with various backgrounds. They are mainly enthusiastic business men in the tourism and agriculture industries. The leader is Mr. Koichiro Sato, Executive Managing Director of the Taenoyu Group (Taenoyu Onsen, Hotel Ischia, and Miyako Wasure).

Jindai Curry Ranger (機動販売戦隊 神代カレンジャー)

The members are easily spotted out. They call themselves “Jindai Currangers (神代カレンジャー)." The yellow costume is custom-made: the two yellows of curry roux, white of Jindai rice, and silver of the silverware. And what’s more—the boiled egg on the belt.

Curranger (Curry-Ranger) in front of the new rice crop.

The members are such fun-loving people that they come up with some innovative events! They have served foods to the IRIS filming groups during the 2009 shoot. They are supportive and cheerful people for our community! Please support them!

"Do you like your mom's curry better? Or, your father's?" (In Standard Japanese Vers.)

The similar plot now in Akita dialect with Standard Japanese Subtitles. LOL